Ever since I can remember, I have always dreamt of being able to be in the water with whales. Any whale, dolphin, seal, dugong, manatee…. I wasn’t fussy. Just so long as I could swim with them and share their underwater world in my dreams, in fact still till this day it is a recurring dream that I have on a regular basis.
In my senior years of high school when the world wide web was created, it gave me a way of finding out if swimming with whales was actually something that was offered for people like me to do, so I put on the old dial up and searched. Eventually after hours of coming up with nothing on the search, I hit the jackpot and stumbled across one small company that was taking whale and ocean lovers like myself on tours to snorkel with humpback whales on an island called Vava’ U in Tonga. I was beside myself and thought someday, somehow I would join this company on one of their tours and finally realise my lifelong dream.
I didn't care how much time, effort and pestering it would take. Unfortunately there was one major obstacle holding me back, I was only in year 12 in high school and had not even a penny to my name, so I got to work and started annoying this company with weekly letters and monthly phone calls for no less than 13 years before they were sick of me. They eventually caved in and invited me over for a season to volunteer.
From the moment the small plane flew over the top of the pristine reefs of Vava’ U, I knew this was only the beginning for me and I'd be back here many more times. I almost immediately felt at home on this small island and I hadn't even reached the good part of meeting the whales yet.
I was to be a whale guide. The voluntary job entailed educating people about the South Pacific Humpback Whale which just happened to be my favourite subject and guiding people in the water snorkelling from the boat to the whale or whales. I was so ridiculously excited I could hardly contain myself. I had seen many whales from above the water but to be in the same space as them in the ocean.. was I finally about to live my dream?
No one EVER forgets their first encounter, the first time I was privileged to be in the water with my first whale it was with a resting female. As a group of four people, we all slid quietly into the water. The water in Tonga is tropical warm and is so crystal clear you immediately see the sandy bottom which on this swim was approximately 30m below. The whale is roughly 50m from the boat so we very quietly snorkel towards her. You can almost hear everyone's hearts beating with anticipation, the feelings are a mixture of exhilaration and anxiety as no one knows quite what to expect.
All of a sudden an image that looks to me like a jumbo jet lying still under the water comes into my vision. As we get near her, we all let out squeals of delight. It is such a surreal and overwhelming experience. Oddly, all anxiety simply disappears once the whale comes into our vision and a sense of calmness falls across the group. We are now approximately 10 meters from this incredible animal in the ocean, we can clearly see her smooth leathery skin and the barnacle nodules that cover parts of her body. There are also some large remora fish hovering underneath her 5 m pectoral fin. This whale looks to be very soulful, and I can see she is filled with wisdom and knowledge. She looks at all of us individually, we seem to be as intriguing to her as she is to us.
All of a sudden we notice a smaller grey body with eyes that are peering at us over the top of this whale. Unbeknownst to us, a calf that has been suckling underneath the mother has decided to make itself known. Humpback whale calves are the most curious of all the baleen whales. This beautiful little one must have been less than a month old and already the size of a small car! So young and yet so curious, the calf swims straight to us showing no fear or trepidation whatsoever. Swimming circles around us, diving up and down underneath and around us. Her mother calmly keeps a watchful eye but seems nonplussed and doesn’t seem to feel threatened in any way. The calf thinks of us as a new game- hide and seek with the humans. Sometimes she dives down underneath her mother and then pops up on the other side of her to take a peek. Other times she swims right up to us stopping only meters short to lie on her side showing off as she does her pec slaps her mother has no doubt been teaching her in the past few weeks.
We enjoy this moment for what feels like hours but is probably only around 30mins before we decide to let them be and continue with their nursing. The whales will be here for around another 40-50 days courting, mating, giving birth and teaching their young. On this first day we are lucky enough to have 3 amazing whale swimming experiences, a magical day that I will never forget a moment of.
My husband, Matt and I returned the season after. Matt is an avid surfer who loves all things ocean but wasn't too sure about snorkelling with something quite as powerful and impressive as a 40 tonne whale, however once he was in the water and had the chance to experience the majestic world of whales underwater his mind changed very quickly and it was nearly impossible to get him out. We were supposed to take it in turns to go on the boat with the guests each day but after a while it was me one day, Matt three days. He just didn't want to stop! He will now tell you that swimming with whales tops surfing, which is REALLY saying something!
We also had our two young children, aged 2 and 1 with us. Thankfully we got to stay in the village during our time there and were welcomed by the warm local people of Vava’u. Very quickly we fell in love with the people, the place and the whales.
Fast forward 6 years to 2013 (with the help of my sister and now business partner Sarah) we started running trips of our own to a beautiful group of Tongan islands we were lucky enough to discover called the Ha'apai group. Ha’apai is a smaller group of islands with less operators on the water, but still just as many whale encounters. We have found it to be the perfect place to take our guests for the past 6 years and hope to continue for many more to come.
The island has a lot of amazing Tongan culture and warm wonderful people. We host all of our small groups in the most incredible beachfront resorts with gorgeous beachfront bungalows. Our guests can literally sit at the resort and lazily watch the whales go by, making the experience even more special (if that is at all possible) .
Sarah and I started this business because we want everyone to experience what we have had the pleasure of experiencing each year. A moving, meaningful soulful experience that will last in your memory forever.
I hope you all go on to live your dreams whatever they may be.